Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Broken board

This past Monday, the waves were a foot or two overhead. I paddled out on my big old 9 plus log immediately noticing the current. The waves aggressively greeted me by smashing into my head and with surprising force. Soon after making it to the outside, I caught a nice big one that soon petered out. I caught another big one that walled up and sectioned in about 5 seconds. Little did I know that those would be my last waves on the log. Finding myself on the inside of a big set all I could do was dive under the wave and let my board fend for itself. No one was near. I pop up tug on the leash and my board comes back to me. Oops, another big friggin' wave and I repeat the previous drill. When Breeching the surface, the first thing I dee is the half of the board still attached to my leg - via leash. I watch as a wave's white frothy foam catches the front of my board, propelling in the direction of the shore. So all I can do is paddle the broken half with a big piece of lamination hanging off the edge like a small whale's tongue. I guess it's time to start using the fish again.
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