Wetsuitless surf session

I decided to sell my 8 foot Waveline surfboard to a friend. After picking up the freshly repaired red and blue board from the surf shop, I made the 10 minute drive to C-Street, my home break. When I left Meiner's Oaks, I did not bring my wetsuit. The feeling was that I should let my knee and foot heal more. When I saw the waves breaking 1-3 feet and surfers easily catching them; well I figured that it could be the last time surfing my red and blue beauty. This is a beginner/intermediate board. I never thought I'd outgrow it but this is just what happened. Lucky for me and my friend, it was a great fit for him as he is just beginning what will hopefully be a lifetime affair with surfing. I know that if he sticks with it, he will never look back. Anyway, I walk over the round river rocks and the giant chunks of cement which line the edge of the beach and am pleasantly surprised when the not too cold sea water touches my toes. I paddle out in between the seams of small waves and am on the outside in less than 20 seconds. The water is brisk and invigorating. I paddle arching my back to keep my washboard from getting a rash. I didn't even bring a rashguard! My first several attempts to catch a wave were unsuccessful but suddenly the timing was right and I caught a cool backside that closed out after only 4 or 5 seconds. The next wave was the one. Wave of my day. It was a right that was shoulder high and just kept going and going. I grabbed a handful to keep me in the pocket and when it was done I let out a whoop of pure joy and surprise. It had been quite a while since I had one like that.

(-:-) If you feel #it# click your heals and the button, baton on the right (-:-)