Saturday, October 13, 2007

Surf Sesh Saturday

After 4 days in a row surfing. My arms, chest, shoulder and lats are sore. This is the best kind of sore. Rob and I surfed for three hours yesterday. Today, after just an hour and a half, I knew I'd reached my limit. Rob rides a 9 footer and started a half hour before me. He felt it as well. My first forty minutes were golden today. Glassy water, blue sky, minimal surfers and classic shoulder to head high waves, walling up and many with peaks all contributed to a memorable Saturday. Rob and I both kept on marveling that this was a Saturday. Where was everyone? Maybe the rain last night kept them out of the water. I concluded that it was not enought rain to poison the ocean and I still feel healthy a couple hours later.

The fish is really working out for me. Sliding accross liquid walls standing on a 5'11 stick, cariving, making turns is an overwelming feeling. It just resets my brain and leaves me in a state of peace. It feels so much like a skeateboard. Its width gives a great deal more stability than I thought. All that one needs is the strength to pull thru the wave. At times I feel that I have it, other time I don't. After just 40 minutes today, I started to lose the power needed to catch these slopers.. I started falling off the end again due to fatigue. But nothing could take away those first 4 wavess. The noise this board makes as it shoots over the water mesmerizes me. Hynson has designed a masterpiece. His fish are legendary, magical and more fun than anything I've ever surfed.
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