Thursday, August 16, 2007

Smokey day hazy sunset

Awoke again to find ash on my black Beam, and haze changing the sky from azure blue to pale blue. The brownish smoke seemed to migrating from the southwest today. It had been coming more from just the west. I learned that the fire experts have been backburning while surfing in front of a red sun thru a layer of brown smoke.

I spent the better part of the afternoon editing the latest Radar Sherpa video. This one is called Trampoline Trance Dance. It is now live on YouTube for those unafraid to press link buttons. It seems to me that about 1 and 10 have the courage to press link buttons. Who are you?

The winds were blowing quite a bit today. Good news for pyros. Bad news for homeowners who are in the line of fire. I heard that they were hitting 30MPH at the beach from another surfer. His name is Mark and he happens to have the some board as I. Same dimensions. Same shaper. different colors. He is fun to surf with. Likes lefts and roots for the other surfers around him to pull thru, pop up and bust moves. The waters were all glassy by the time we all got out there. The wave were disorganized though. Well, actually they seemed organized to keep me off them. Kind of like women. I kept paddling and paddling but each wave seemed to back off and pass me by. I watched how each wave that I went for would break on either side of me. "Hmm," I thought, "I am always in the middle." I watch as this older dude keeps catching them. It was amazing. He'd be shooting by on a wave and then a minute later he's shooting by on a wave again. Days like this, I must admit that I am missing the 8 footer. These were pretty much long board rides. No real drop. Need some gravity. Anyway, at one point, this older dude paddle by and I am like 'Hi, I am the human buoy. He laughs at my joke and like 20 seconds later he is crusing by me on his board with this smooth little smile. I can't help but smile back. Then I hear my friend Mark say: "Hey, that's got to be Mickey Munoz." Turns out it was.

Back on land. I see that Mickey is parked next to me. I pay homage to him and marvel at his prowess. This man is ageless. In his 70's and catching waves like he's 20. It's a pleasure to talk to hime. He is so present. So completely zenned out. He smiles and tells me that he has not been able to surf for 30 days because he had some eye surgery. I can tell that this session has stoked him. Fed him. Fed his soul like nothing else. Mickey is one of the legends of the surfing world. I have read about him in surfing lore. What an honor to surf with him on the same waves and than share in a conversation with him. He eyes shined with the passion in his heart. This man is a board shaper and a soul surfer.
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