Surf at dawn, kayak at sunset
I must commend myself for once again getting out of bed befrore 6:30 AM to surf at Turtle Bay. By the time I pull in to the resort and park it is 7 AM. The sky is primarily overcast and the temperature is cool by tropical standards. It takes me 10 minutes to get to the water and another 10 to paddle out to where the waves are breaking where I want to catch them. Paddle past a couple short boarders and a boogey boarder. Briefly, I think one of the short boarders is Bri, he has the trademark bald head. As I paddle by he glares at me. Nope, that is not Bri just another territorial surfer guarding his wave-catching-area like a dog with his bone. I look further out and spot Bri, his back is to the shore, wearing his black rash guard with black board shorts. I watch as he quickly catches a wave and rides it 150 yards. A minute later I catch a wave and take it in. I paddle back out.
Even though Bri called me last night and invited me to come here and surf, he is not talking to me. His manner is tense and annoyed. It is obvious that I stepped on a land mine yesterday when my competitve intensity spilled over in ways that Bri found unacceptable. I try and talk with Brian during a lull. We are the furthest ones out, no one is within 60 yards. There are only 5 other surfers in the water. It is obvious that we have different recollections on what transpired. My apologies go unaccepted and the discussion gets heated. The sky seems to darken as a big layer of greyish clouds float, suspended above us. A cold wind blows. Nothing more to be said. Bri paddles away and then sits on his board facing the other direction waiting for the next wave.
I catch a few rides before another big lull of no waves arrives. The blue sky cannot be seen for the clouds. The wind contiues to blow and I start to shiver. I silently pray for a good wave to take me in. The previous discussion weighs on my head like the heavy clouds above our heads and I wonder if it will be resolved before I go, before my next visit...
I spy a big wave as it comes up quick, rolling water, frothing at the crest. Spin my board around while sittting, ease on to stomach, start paddling, ahh... yeah caught it, stand up and ride this shoulder highish bull of a wave 100, 200, 250 yards in. I paddle the last 50 yards to the shore thankful for such a long wave. Walk along the beach. Glance out to the point. Bri sits on his board, furthest one out, waiting for a big one.
Today's yoga slows me down, brings me to a calm detatched state. Afterwards, I am all yinned out and can only think of taking a nap. Sleep for 3 hours.
When Roberto gets home, I mention how nice it'd be to kayak. Even though, the horizon has almost caught the sun, we decide to take the kayak out and catch a couple waves. The green kayak slips thru the oncoming waves easily as we aim for an area where the waves are breaking the biggest on the reef. We paddle in synch and easily catch several waves. At one point, we're on a steep one and the nose gets caught under the wave, throws us into the salty sea. It feels nice, warm, invigorating. Back in the kayak. Waiting. Another lull. Sky darkens. We paddle again, Roberto at the helm. We try to ride a couple waves but they do not break. Finally we catch a wave and it takes us to within 20 yards of the shore.
Back at the house, we soak in the jacuzzi. Jade's in with us. she's only 2. Loves the water. Her eyes sparkle. She holds her breath and goes under. Pops up after a few seconds. She swims around. Smiles. Laughs. First day of pre school for her today. Way to go Jade!
Even though Bri called me last night and invited me to come here and surf, he is not talking to me. His manner is tense and annoyed. It is obvious that I stepped on a land mine yesterday when my competitve intensity spilled over in ways that Bri found unacceptable. I try and talk with Brian during a lull. We are the furthest ones out, no one is within 60 yards. There are only 5 other surfers in the water. It is obvious that we have different recollections on what transpired. My apologies go unaccepted and the discussion gets heated. The sky seems to darken as a big layer of greyish clouds float, suspended above us. A cold wind blows. Nothing more to be said. Bri paddles away and then sits on his board facing the other direction waiting for the next wave.
I catch a few rides before another big lull of no waves arrives. The blue sky cannot be seen for the clouds. The wind contiues to blow and I start to shiver. I silently pray for a good wave to take me in. The previous discussion weighs on my head like the heavy clouds above our heads and I wonder if it will be resolved before I go, before my next visit...
I spy a big wave as it comes up quick, rolling water, frothing at the crest. Spin my board around while sittting, ease on to stomach, start paddling, ahh... yeah caught it, stand up and ride this shoulder highish bull of a wave 100, 200, 250 yards in. I paddle the last 50 yards to the shore thankful for such a long wave. Walk along the beach. Glance out to the point. Bri sits on his board, furthest one out, waiting for a big one.
Today's yoga slows me down, brings me to a calm detatched state. Afterwards, I am all yinned out and can only think of taking a nap. Sleep for 3 hours.
When Roberto gets home, I mention how nice it'd be to kayak. Even though, the horizon has almost caught the sun, we decide to take the kayak out and catch a couple waves. The green kayak slips thru the oncoming waves easily as we aim for an area where the waves are breaking the biggest on the reef. We paddle in synch and easily catch several waves. At one point, we're on a steep one and the nose gets caught under the wave, throws us into the salty sea. It feels nice, warm, invigorating. Back in the kayak. Waiting. Another lull. Sky darkens. We paddle again, Roberto at the helm. We try to ride a couple waves but they do not break. Finally we catch a wave and it takes us to within 20 yards of the shore.
Back at the house, we soak in the jacuzzi. Jade's in with us. she's only 2. Loves the water. Her eyes sparkle. She holds her breath and goes under. Pops up after a few seconds. She swims around. Smiles. Laughs. First day of pre school for her today. Way to go Jade!
posted by Dij at 10:10 PM
0 waves:
Post a Comment
<< Home