Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Two surf sessions and two rainbows

When I awake this morning the first thing I hear is Liz asking Roberto about the surf. He responds that there are some waves out there. I could tell that he'd just had a surf sesh. One thing I know is that If Roberto says that there are waves then that means there are some 2 footers (head highs) especially if he went out with one of his boards. This is the best way to wake up. I bound down the stairs. Liz already has a rash guard on. "There's waves, I'm going out... do you want to surf?"

"Yeah, I'm grabbing my rash guard right now... where's the sun tan lotion?"

I grab Ro's 9'6, walk the 4 houses down to the end of the steet, across the lawn, on the sand, in the water, walk along the edge of the reef. Once it gets deep enough, I put the board down, keep walking and then jump on the board - stomach first. Paddle, paddle. paddle... follow the rip out and then I am out there with these big ole watery bulls coming thru. Liz is already out there with a neighbor - Jennifer.

The sesh is fun, lasts over 2 hours, I enjoy watching Liz catch waves. She's comfortable out in the ocean, lots of stamina, relentless. I ride a few my self, some big ones, fall off a few, miss a few. She heads back in after an hour, I stay out for more and catch several head highs. Several other surfers arrive, there's enough waves for everyone. These bulls are not predictable, some close out, some don't break, most are mushy - big but mushy. They come in jack up and dont't break... but then there are the waves that peak and peel left and right and go for several hundred yards.

After over 2 hours, I paddle in. Time for yoga and tai chi and then some food. In the middle of these exercises, while listening to hard modern rock, i get inspired to write a song and then post it [previous post]. After my first meal of the day, the time for Caio's soccer practice arrives.

My last practice is highlighted with rainbows and a gentle sunshower. Coach Ken ends up having me choose and explain a drill. I pick the triangle plus 2 drill. Once you understand this drill, then you have the core of soccer. You see, soccer is all about triangles. That is the geometric structure that you get when you connect the dots and pass the ball to your teammates.
The biggest challenge in teaching soccer to preteens is getting the concept of passing the ball, working like a team. Many skills have to already be in place in order for this to work but I think that it is invaluable to get the teamwork concept across in the beginning. The drill goes fine and then it is time for a scrimmage. This is when the rainbow appeared. Coach Ken stopped the game and said "Everybody look at the rainbow!"

We arrive back after six - plenty of time for more surfing. Ro takes out a shortboard. I grab the trusty 9'6, paddle out and am soon sitting on the board, loving my last sunset surf, undaunted by the amount of surfers out. The watery bulls start coming thru. I paddle around them, sizing them up, watching for patterns. Almost every one is out on a shortboard so I am able to pick and choose the wave I want. I catch a few and then sit back and admire a big rainbow that starts at the point and ends on a yellow house. Most of the waves I catch close out quicly but I do manage to catch a big one that gives me a great ride - smooth drop and the some speed. My last wave was the best. The sky darkens, I paddle in and walk up the beach. The end of the vacation looms. One more surf sesh tomorrow morning.

1 waves:

Blogger Danius Maximus said...

good times! I wish I lived near a body of water where I could do that...around here its just fishing and drinking

7:22 AM  

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