More fabulous waves
Another day in the ocean and it is starting to feel like heaven out there. I went paddled out shortly after high noon. There was one short bourder who was tearing it up. He was freshly shaved bald and you could see his head sticking up above the wave as we cut and slashed the water to ribbons as it wrapped around the point. The swell was down a little bit although there were some good sized sets here and there. The conditions were very clean, just a light breeze and the NW swell was more apparent than the N one.
There were 30 people out but they seemed to mostly be beginners or at least new to the point. The wave behavior is starting to get familiar to me and I was able to be in the right place at the right time more often. Time after time, I'd be on the inside of 4 or 5 folks, a wave would come, they'd all paddle for it but unable to get over the edge. I'd be going for it and get it with my 9 footer. Then, I'd spy some bumps, paddle outside beyond everyone and sure enough, just like an on time train, some big ole waves would role in and I'd get a huge ride.The real key to my success is that big board. I've learned over the years that the big board gets the wave. I must have fell off 4 or 5 though. But I did catch around 7 or 8. Three of them stand out in my mind because of their classic shape and the length of the ride went at least 150 yards.
It was tough not to double sesh it again today. Good sense won out over my passion to surf. My body has ways of letting me know that it needs to rest; we'll leave it at that. About 90 minutes before sunset, I went to the point to check out the surfers. It was 80% short boarders out there and they were shredding. Putting on a show for all the Turtle Bay guests.
The hotel has such a cool set up, a front row seat to watch the surfers play. There were at least 10 surfers out there who were superb. The most startling performance was put on my this young lad. I found out afterward that he was only 12 years old. He was phenominal, lightening fast, all over the wave, floating, shower curtained, barreled. A joy to watch. There was a great long boarder out there as well. He caught most of the killer outside waves and carved them up like a sculptor. Always in the right spot, he had his finger on the pulse of the point.
There were 30 people out but they seemed to mostly be beginners or at least new to the point. The wave behavior is starting to get familiar to me and I was able to be in the right place at the right time more often. Time after time, I'd be on the inside of 4 or 5 folks, a wave would come, they'd all paddle for it but unable to get over the edge. I'd be going for it and get it with my 9 footer. Then, I'd spy some bumps, paddle outside beyond everyone and sure enough, just like an on time train, some big ole waves would role in and I'd get a huge ride.The real key to my success is that big board. I've learned over the years that the big board gets the wave. I must have fell off 4 or 5 though. But I did catch around 7 or 8. Three of them stand out in my mind because of their classic shape and the length of the ride went at least 150 yards.
It was tough not to double sesh it again today. Good sense won out over my passion to surf. My body has ways of letting me know that it needs to rest; we'll leave it at that. About 90 minutes before sunset, I went to the point to check out the surfers. It was 80% short boarders out there and they were shredding. Putting on a show for all the Turtle Bay guests.
The hotel has such a cool set up, a front row seat to watch the surfers play. There were at least 10 surfers out there who were superb. The most startling performance was put on my this young lad. I found out afterward that he was only 12 years old. He was phenominal, lightening fast, all over the wave, floating, shower curtained, barreled. A joy to watch. There was a great long boarder out there as well. He caught most of the killer outside waves and carved them up like a sculptor. Always in the right spot, he had his finger on the pulse of the point.
posted by Dij at 10:25 PM
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