Tuesday, December 13, 2005

3 mishaps - need more focus!

Went on another 4 mile walk with Dad today. We threaded around the condos, wrapped around the hotel and then walked over lava rock on the shore before making our way along the golf course, cutting back to the condo. As we walked along the hotel, just passed the pool, we passed by Rob Machado, one of the most famous surfers in the world. He's a Californian and was with what looked like his family. I looked him in the eye and noticed that he seemed slightly agitated so all I did was say: "How's it going?" not letting on that I knew who he was. I figure that celebs must get tired of strangers recognizing them. I know that it sure annoys me when I am not feeling receptive.

Anyway, I got a look at the waves and knew that I'd get out there. It looked even smaller than yesterday but it seemed to hae cleaned up a bit despite the spite of the tradewinds.

Back at the condo, I went thru a minimal warm up - just tai chi. The paddle out was cake. The current which runs along the edge of the point was back in commission and took me out - a liquid conveyor belt. When I got to the place where it was breaking, I waited politely at the end of the line up, quietly marveling at all the cute girls out today. The sets were not very consistent but every once in a while, the conditions would conspire to give us 3 or 4 clean waves with nice walls.

My first wave had a nice over head drop before showing its head high colors. One of the cute girls dropped in on my wave and herded me over towards another cutie who floundered helplessly as I barreled at her on my 9 foot wave truck. I baled off the wave a little too late. When I popped to the surface, I was happy to see she was uninjured.

"Is your board OK?" She asked.

Quick check, "Yeah, It's fine. Are you OK?"


"How 'bout your board?"

"It was damaged but don't worry about it, it's a rental."

I catch several more fun waves, good walls, fast and clean. Then another surfer is kind of floundering in front of me. I guess I am still getting used to this long board because I had to bail off at the last second before another watery collision.

"My whole life just passed before my eyes," he said.

"Sorry about that, I guess I bailed off in just the nick of time."

You'd think that that would be it but I had one more incident that has had me putting ice on my head tonight. I was a bit too deep on this one wave, would have had to take it left into the rocks that guard the edge of the point. Instead of going for it, I step back off the board but I am too late and go over the falls with my board flipping over top of me. BAM!! I see a couple stars and feel the impact just behind my temple over my left ear. I check it for blood hoping that it was not my fin. I lucked out, it must have been the side of the board. I continue to surf as the bump becomes an egg and a bunch of short boarders arrive on the scene to surf the melee.