Wednesday, December 07, 2005

At least I got wet

Day two in Hawaii went by like a cloud shaped like a chimera. Actually, every cloud could be considered a chimera. The evasive bacteria has lingered, making its presence known for over 3 weeks now. Thus, I lingered in bed once again. My folks, got up early for an organized hike. From the sound of it, they spent more time in the car then actually hiking though. This gave me the condo to my self for the morning and afternoon. Internet, tai chi some yoga, more internet. I finally gained access to VEOH. It's a free download that gives you full screen video capability. Consequently, I frittered away a bunch of time watching mostly poor quality junk. At least it works though.

At 4PM, I finally managed to get out the door with surf board in hand. The ten minute walk to the ocean felt refreshing after so many hours spent indoors. When I arrived at the shore, it was obvous that the swell had really dropped. It was all junk with anti hollow waves. The way they were breaking was kind of like in Cali. Tradewinds blowing like crazy. I realized today that I will definitely have to aquire at least a fun board if not a long board. It was super nice to be out in the ocean. This one dude on a 12 footer was catching all the waves. Most of us on shorties just could not get enough speed to catch the junk in the chop. I tried a few differnt places, near the hotel, out towards the middle, inside but it was all the same. Even when I caught the white, it was not enough to give me much of a push. Still, I paddled in satisfied that I at least went out and got wet.