Danger zone

When I began to surf today, yesterday’s head injury was still fresh in my mind even though the swelling had gone down. The first wave was not too big and I caught it, stood up and had a nice ride. There were not too many other surfers and the conditions were favorable. There were light winds allowing the water to appear glassy at times. I did fall off on a number of decent waves but did on suffer any consequences beyond my tattered pride. Then it happened, a big beautiful, clean wave came thru and I caught it and stood up. Huge drop (double overhead +), but it felt smooth as silk as I cruised along the wall. It linked up with another wave and took me all the way to the pool. This translates to over 100 yards of pure fun. I paddled in with total joy. The ecstatic feeling of that wave is still rolling. Easy to feel gratitude when it is this good.

[2 hours later]
I knew that I had to get out there again. You never know what it is going to be like tomorrow. Easy paddle out, close to the point, where there is normally a channel. Once again I fall off a few but towards the end of this sesh I caught a (for me) epic wave. This baby walled up and as I dropped I came close to falling but was able to save my balance by putting my hand on the water and using it like a water ski. Once I corrected my balance the ride was smooth and sweet. My last wave started out amazing. It had a sweet wall, good size and I shot along until it started to close out. That’s when I looked towards the hotel to check my position. “WHOOOOO!!!” I think to myself. Heading straight for the big ass lava rocks that guard the point with craggy indifference to my soft skin, I quickly abandon the wave and pray that it will not damage my board or me for that matter. Longer than I wanted, push to the surface. I can feel the hard rocky ground with my feet and use my right leg to tug the board into my grasp just as another wave arrives. I turtle, let the wave pass and then I am paddling lickidy split away from the danger zone. Another wave makes an attempt to beach me, I turtle, flip back, paddle, paddle, paddle. Finally out of mortal danger, seems like a good time to end the sesh. Now the waves are helping me as I calmly paddle in, pushing me to the shore where I am able to exit in peace