Tuesday, February 10, 2009

20 minutes ago #6

I paddle out on my blood red and deep black quad fish. Shaped by Mike Hynson, this one stretches to 5-11 and is 2.5 inches thick. There are not any other surfers around but there are waves. They jack up and provide the perfect challenge for me on what at the time was a relatively new board – the shortest I’d surfed on – and the most challenging. Minutes after paddling to the outside I notice a black dolphin, on its own, swimming further out – maybe 60 feet away. Returning my focus to the task at hand, I noticed a set coming through and quickly positioned myself. The shorter board had been challenging me to perfect the art of surfing. Progression one day regression the next day; it was kind of like the stock market for me out there. Today would be different and I am not sure why, maybe it was because I had been fasting so much, wasn’t getting tired, was so easy to pop up. On that day, I was feeling good, magically deliciously good and that is when the right wave at the right time rolled in, jacked up as I paddled and kicked like crazy for it and then popped up as it went vertical and then free fell onto my board landing perfectly. The joy in my heart exploded and simultaneously the black dolphin called into my heart a message a tone a song and the history of the world compressed into a fraction of a second. In order to hear it I had to stop time – hit the pause button – stepping into my smooth skinned friends skin for what felt like days and then I am back in my human form making the turn and riding the wave for 50 feet or so having temporarily forgotten that I had just lived as a dolphin for around 30 days or so. In order to play that memory, I needed a plug in, an application and some food. At one point I see a friendly young red curly-haired surfer paddling out towards me, that’s when I notice - just over his head 50 yards to shore on the beach – there is a shady looking character about to go through my surf bag. I whistle shrilly thru my fingers and he freezes-


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