Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Gonna turn your brown waves blue

2008 January North Shore, Oahu
There had just been a storm. I stood on the picnic table and watched the small swell crash against the reef. The water was brown due to the several inches of last night's rain washing soil into the ocean via the various river mouths. Despite the fact that the influence of the storm continued to wreak havoc, I decided to paddle out on my sister's 8-6 V board. There wasn't much wind and I hadn't surfed for a few days so I just went for it. I grabbed the board out of her garage and soon was making my way towards Freddy's. I prefer to paddle around the reef rather than walk up the channels. I spent 30 minutes observing the chaotic conditions up close. 'Oh well', I thought to my self. Time to paddle in. I decided to get a little more exercise by paddling down to Sunset. Every where I looked it was brown. That was some rainstorm. As I got closer to Sunset I caught a glimpse of someone surfing there. To my utter amazement, the water was clear blue and the swell was producing perfect 3 foot (Hawaiian) waves that lasted for at least 200 yards and there was one guy surfing them.
Needless to say, I surfed these perfect head high waves for the next couple hours until my arms were about to fall off. The waves kept coming and coming without let up. Every once in a while I'd exchange a couple words with the other surfer - he was an Ausie - but mostly we gave all of our attention to this sacred experience. Just as I began to paddle in, 2 more guys appeared. It was their shift. My Job was done. They looked enthralled, salivating at the empty line up and magical conditions.

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