Wednesday, August 22, 2012

In the middle

Earlier this year during my January Turtle Bay visit, I paddled out to Pool Bar. When I got out there I counted another 30 or so surfers competing for the 3 different launching pads. The memory of my brother's beta whispered in my ear. "When its crowded at Pool Bar, I paddle to the middle." Thus I began the 100 yard or so paddle to the middle. As I approached the zone I could see that there was one other surfer. Just as I arrived and sat on my board, the other surfer paddled away head down no words exchanged. He was done. Initially, I just sat there watching the waves, imagining the best take offs. Its a little different surfing alone in the middle of the bay, 150 yards from shore. Soon, I found the pattern and began to catch sweet, couple-feet overhead waves. They actually seemed bigger and longer than anything happening at Pool Bar. After 20 minutes or so of catching waves alone, I watched 5 boogie boarders kicking their way onto the scene. They were high schoolers, locals, and the smiles came easy and the light danced out of their eyes. They whooped it up, cheering each other on. They brought a level of enthusiasm and comradery that I don't see very often among surfers. They'd cheer me on as well. Turned out 2 of them know my brother - he's been teaching for years as Kahuku High School. These were really fun waves and they don't happen all the time. I managed to stay out there for two and a half hours. Finally paddling in with the last of my energy as the the light began to fade. Soon, I was walking across the golf course sending pleasant thoughts of gratitude to my brother Bri who helped make that memorable surf sesh possible.

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