Ultra classic surf sesh with the hood
Bob Marley's "No Woman No Crying" plays on Liz's Imac. The love birds ocassionally chirp and the clouds are turning purple. Roberto is on the grill cooking corn, burgers and an orange fish he caught to day. There are several kids on the porch. It amazes me how many kids spend time here. Caio has many friends and Jade has kids that play with her. All they need are some double arches in the yard because they have more children playing here than Mc Donald's. Last night, Caio spent the night in a tent with his friend, Chase. I could hear them excitedly talking while I sat in the TV room writng last night's song. Currenly, Caio, Jade and three other kids are playing a game as Roberto mans the grill.
Liz and I just got out of the ocean 30 minutes ago.We had an ultra classic surf session that I feel honored and privileged to have been part of. The only ones in the water were Ben, Luke, Ryan, Pen and her friend. Ben has been regularly sufing for 2 years and just turned 14. He catches waves effortlessly, has great wave vision and is easily spotted with his blonde blonde hair. Ryan is only seven so he was our youngest surfer today. Luke's about to turn 12, started surfing when he was seven. during lulls, Luke paddles and stands up on his board balancing until he falls.
After several days with too many surfers out there, today was an oasis in the desert. It was a neighborhood surf sesh straight from the community magic department. Every one totally layed back, chill, happy and catching waves. Ironically, when I first paddled out, I let the first couple waves frustrate me. Over the water I say to Liz: "These waves don't make sense!" I can't remember what she said but it placated me.
As it turns out I only missed the first couple of waves before it all clicked into place like tumblers in a lock on a vault. What opens this vault? It aint numbers... It's attitude, vision, placement and heart. What's in the vault? sunsets, comraderie, clear blue water and more than I can ever describe. Another treasure I found today in the water was being able to make adjustments on the board while standing. Typically, if the board started nosing or a rail caught, then I'd be in the water. Not so today. I had time to think, go with the flow and compensate.
Earlier today, I ran down the bike trail to Pipeline with clouds eracing my shadow. After 10 minutes I start to notice the humidity, it is thick almost like I am running underwater. On the way back the sun comes out and I chase my stubby shadow down the road.
Liz and I just got out of the ocean 30 minutes ago.We had an ultra classic surf session that I feel honored and privileged to have been part of. The only ones in the water were Ben, Luke, Ryan, Pen and her friend. Ben has been regularly sufing for 2 years and just turned 14. He catches waves effortlessly, has great wave vision and is easily spotted with his blonde blonde hair. Ryan is only seven so he was our youngest surfer today. Luke's about to turn 12, started surfing when he was seven. during lulls, Luke paddles and stands up on his board balancing until he falls.
After several days with too many surfers out there, today was an oasis in the desert. It was a neighborhood surf sesh straight from the community magic department. Every one totally layed back, chill, happy and catching waves. Ironically, when I first paddled out, I let the first couple waves frustrate me. Over the water I say to Liz: "These waves don't make sense!" I can't remember what she said but it placated me.
As it turns out I only missed the first couple of waves before it all clicked into place like tumblers in a lock on a vault. What opens this vault? It aint numbers... It's attitude, vision, placement and heart. What's in the vault? sunsets, comraderie, clear blue water and more than I can ever describe. Another treasure I found today in the water was being able to make adjustments on the board while standing. Typically, if the board started nosing or a rail caught, then I'd be in the water. Not so today. I had time to think, go with the flow and compensate.
Earlier today, I ran down the bike trail to Pipeline with clouds eracing my shadow. After 10 minutes I start to notice the humidity, it is thick almost like I am running underwater. On the way back the sun comes out and I chase my stubby shadow down the road.
posted by Dij at 7:07 PM
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