From overcast to sunshine
Angus woke with urgent meows, well before daylight. I ignored his feline plees to go outside. Every so often, he tried again to persuade me but his intense requests went unanswered until daybreak. Finally, I am able to sleep soundly until my cell phone startles me into wakefulness. Time to get up. Look out the window. I am greeted by gloomy grey clouds continuing to shoud the Ojai Valley.
While moving thru yoga and tai chi, my thoughts wrestle with whether or not to surf. I go back and forth. Might be a nice day to just veg. but then again, the swell will drop even more tomorrow. Regardless, the yoga and tai chi work their emprirical magic and revive my body.
Decision made. Go surf. I take the back road out of town, skipping the lights and traffic. When I get out to 33, I am shocked to see that the cloud cover does not extend to the ocean. In fact, it becomes apparent that Ventura is experiencing a sunny day, unocculted by the clouds. "Wow," I think to myself, "I'll need to put on some sun tan lotion, cool." When 33 becomes 101, I am in the sunshine, yee hah!
Pull into the Point's lot, more than one empty space to choose from. Check out the swell. Conditions are mellow. Looks to be 2 to 4, chest to head high. Nice. Has not dropped too much since yesterday. Not too many surfers out there. Red Tide is still around. Paddle out is easy, just follow out a big waves return and bam, feels like I am outside in 20 seconds. Within, 10 minutes, Caveman paddles over: "Yo dude, what's up?" He says with a smile.
"Just having fun."
He continues to paddle and soon disappears. I won't see him again till I am walking back to the Skip[ mobile. The winds are very light and the water is surreal in its glassiness. When I finally catch a wave, I almost fall off but I somehow regain my balance and have a great ride. Zig zagging smooth like Jerry Lopez, grabbing the wave, letting it wall up and then getting shower curtained to end it. The rest of the session I get worked a bit, mostly when pushing up to my feet. This is my greatest challenge so far as a surfer. Wearing booties has made me a little less confident. The biggest wave I caught of the day was not meant to be. I fell off the damned thing. Oh well. Towards the end of the sesh, I managed to catch a few more and ride them over in the direction of the pier. At this point my arms felt spent. Time to paddle in.
While moving thru yoga and tai chi, my thoughts wrestle with whether or not to surf. I go back and forth. Might be a nice day to just veg. but then again, the swell will drop even more tomorrow. Regardless, the yoga and tai chi work their emprirical magic and revive my body.
Decision made. Go surf. I take the back road out of town, skipping the lights and traffic. When I get out to 33, I am shocked to see that the cloud cover does not extend to the ocean. In fact, it becomes apparent that Ventura is experiencing a sunny day, unocculted by the clouds. "Wow," I think to myself, "I'll need to put on some sun tan lotion, cool." When 33 becomes 101, I am in the sunshine, yee hah!
Pull into the Point's lot, more than one empty space to choose from. Check out the swell. Conditions are mellow. Looks to be 2 to 4, chest to head high. Nice. Has not dropped too much since yesterday. Not too many surfers out there. Red Tide is still around. Paddle out is easy, just follow out a big waves return and bam, feels like I am outside in 20 seconds. Within, 10 minutes, Caveman paddles over: "Yo dude, what's up?" He says with a smile.
"Just having fun."
He continues to paddle and soon disappears. I won't see him again till I am walking back to the Skip[ mobile. The winds are very light and the water is surreal in its glassiness. When I finally catch a wave, I almost fall off but I somehow regain my balance and have a great ride. Zig zagging smooth like Jerry Lopez, grabbing the wave, letting it wall up and then getting shower curtained to end it. The rest of the session I get worked a bit, mostly when pushing up to my feet. This is my greatest challenge so far as a surfer. Wearing booties has made me a little less confident. The biggest wave I caught of the day was not meant to be. I fell off the damned thing. Oh well. Towards the end of the sesh, I managed to catch a few more and ride them over in the direction of the pier. At this point my arms felt spent. Time to paddle in.
posted by Dij at 8:35 PM
2 waves:
Hi Mike Didj,
Wow what a good looking blog and the post From overcast to sunshine really caught my eye, but I was looking for something on breathing exercise just like what they have at http://www.breathwork.be any way thanks for your efforts and time you have put iin to your blog. I have really enjoyed it.
Geoffrey Smith - Breathwork Facilitator Belgium
Geoff, thanks for the compliment. Sorry to disappoint you concerning my lack of breathing techniques offered on this site.
Interestingly enough, I have been researching digital video cameras for the purpose of expanding Bardo Surfer into a video internet channel. Of the many subjects I expect to depict will be: how to circular breathe - with and without the didjeridoo, tai chi, yoga techniques, as well as varrious slices of my Ojai experience.
Bardo Surfer has over 300 posts now... some of them concern my body sensory awareness journey... you may have to dig to find them... please enjoy.
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