Monday, December 19, 2005

X-mas shopping and stormy seas

Managed to snag all my X-mas gifts today from Walmart. This is my first time getting gifts for the holiday season in maybe a decade. So, I ended up getting little gifts for the nephews and nieces on Oahu - along with the rest of the crew out here. With only six days left before C-day, I expected to be mob scened but it was actually not too bad. Mom came in handy, I was able to bounce ideas off her or like holding up a gift and saying how 'bout this? If she didn't like it she'd do quick head shake, frown quizically and look down. This kind of took the pressure off me.

You see, one of the things that I do not do is shop. Don't eat chicken or apple pie or own a vehicle with 4 wheels. Don't have any kids or even a girlfriend. Don't own a TV or furniture. I do eat fish, own a PowerBook and a high performance motorcycle. Own a StumpJumper mountainbike and three surfboards. But... enough about me... this post is going to be about something else for once.

Here's a great toy to get for your kids, who cares if it is late... some things are priceless and timeless.

And now, back to our regularly scheduled agenda of my endless pursuit of happiness. I guess, this is my obligation with all the people fighting, working and slaving away. More and more I am starting to realize that I need to stop my silly complaining. Where's it all coming from anyway?! Wake up sucker! Put a smile on your face. That frown hurts you more than anyone else... so just knock it off.

Well, I did not surf Saturday. I did not surf Sunday. The pressure of this knowledge became greater and greater until, at 4:34 PM, I grabbed the giant red-striped surfboard and marched accross the golf course like the trooper I am. Due to the Turtle Bay cam,I knew ahead of time that I'd be greeted by very sloppy conditions. Thus I was not surprised that it was all junk out there. What did surprise me was that there were like 10 other surfers joining me in such a messy surf conditions, all of us paddling around the chaos, dodging waves and enjoying the danger. My own particular showing was sad, kind of pathetic. I guess the only good thing I can say about it is that at lest I did not drown when my board slammed into the right side of my head - just above the temple. As I flondered around under the water after getting my bell rung; I actually really fought to get to the surface. A sense of urgency awoke in me, I guess it was my will to live or something. So, when I broke thru the surface of the water and sucked in some air, I felt some relief. This headshot did not seem to have been as brutal as the last one. Although, when I sat back up on the board, touched my head with my hand and then looked at my hand... I saw blood.

That was enough to convince me to start paddling in and get my sorry ass back onto solid ground. As I paddle a messy wave happens by so I stood up on the slop just so I could at least get some practice in. The ocean is a tricky thing. The last time I was out over at Freddy's, it was much bigger, much more powerful. Just goes to show that one has to be ever-vigilant out here in the stormy seas.