Thursday, January 25, 2007

The waves were deceptive

The waves were deceptively playful. Five of us sat on our boards, fishing for waves. 2 short boards and 3 long boards. The wind was still and the surface of the water took on a glassy sheen. Sets rolled in, offering free rides and good vibes. My good fortune continued from yesterday and the day before and wave after wave came my way. After one of several long rides, the ocean became rough as I tried to return to the lineup. One particularly nasty wave smashed me on the reef and I knew without looking that my arm was bleeding in multiple areas. This is the price of low tide and a shallow reef. Undaunted, I persevered; making my way back outside, I began to wait for waves again. I checked my arm and sure enough, blood was seeping out in various places. The reef likes to give us temporary tattoos and I admired its work. Blood has a tendency to attract sharks. Instead of being concerned, I was hopeful. I had not eaten any breakfast and was hungry.

40 minutes later, I found my last wave of this sesh. It took me right to the shore while a man filmed me on an expensive looking HD video camera. I asked him what he's filming for and he responded: "The Golf Channel."