Mahalo North Shore!
Another Hawaiian vacation has come to an end. This one lasted 23 days. As I type, I am 30,000 feet above the ocean 45 minutes away from L.A.. I do not know how I shall get back to Ojai. Maybe a shuttle or maybe I shall some how miraculously get a ride from some one. I shall leave it up to chance. Meanwhile all I have to do now is remember the spectacular time that I had on the North Shore.
Snorkeling in Turtle Bay stands out because of the amazing fish I was graced to see. A school of white and yellow fish that I joined for a spell. The small 5-inch rainbow-colored fish who swam right up to me and looked in my eye with unabashed wonderment.
Earlier today, Bri and I surfed an east side beach's small swell. There were more waves then I expected. Bri demonstrated his surfing intuition, knowing where to be. The waves were fickle and tough to gage. We shared the waters with a couple guys giving surfing lessons. They whooped it up whenever their students caught a wave. The sky started out overcast and even shed a few drops on my head but then the sun came out and raised a few freckles on my cheeks.
I lucked out with Turtle Bay last week. It gave me three days and 4 sessions worth of perfect waves. Those rides are etched into my mind. Last week, I was able to catch some big Freddy waves. Not many things are as scarey as being on a double overhead North shore wave. Not just scarey though, exhilarating, challenging, awe-inspiring… I can go on and on.
And of course, it was amazing hanging out with my folks. Mom and Dad, thanks for your generosity – the gift and and privilege of staying at your condo.
Snorkeling in Turtle Bay stands out because of the amazing fish I was graced to see. A school of white and yellow fish that I joined for a spell. The small 5-inch rainbow-colored fish who swam right up to me and looked in my eye with unabashed wonderment.
Earlier today, Bri and I surfed an east side beach's small swell. There were more waves then I expected. Bri demonstrated his surfing intuition, knowing where to be. The waves were fickle and tough to gage. We shared the waters with a couple guys giving surfing lessons. They whooped it up whenever their students caught a wave. The sky started out overcast and even shed a few drops on my head but then the sun came out and raised a few freckles on my cheeks.
I lucked out with Turtle Bay last week. It gave me three days and 4 sessions worth of perfect waves. Those rides are etched into my mind. Last week, I was able to catch some big Freddy waves. Not many things are as scarey as being on a double overhead North shore wave. Not just scarey though, exhilarating, challenging, awe-inspiring… I can go on and on.
And of course, it was amazing hanging out with my folks. Mom and Dad, thanks for your generosity – the gift and and privilege of staying at your condo.
0 waves:
Post a Comment
<< Home