One wave redeems the sloppy sea
When my cell phone's alarm went off this morning, I grabbed it and turned it off. I was going to hit the ocean early and catch some waves but my need for sleep won out. I figured that I'd have a chance after putting in a couple hours prepping for the latest retreat. Rain has been forcasted to begin tonight so I knew that this would be my last chance for a while. Surfing becomes just a bit too toxic, after significant rainfalls, for this surfer.
I arrive on the estate and take care of a few loose ends: moving some beds, heating up some spaces, turning on the jacuzzi. Some how this ends up taking 2 hours and then I am off, yeah, gonna surf The Point again.
I arrive in the loaner, a silver Toyota Land Cruiser. A nice ride, lots of space and a decent stereo. It takes about 5 minutes for a parking spot to open. I've already seen the waves, due to the height of this SUV; the swell looks like it has faded quite a bit. There are still some overhead standouts, though.
As I am putting on my O'Neal wetsuit, I spot and say hello to Kim. She's a caterer who sometimes caters for the retreats - but not this time. She heads off to the restroom to get her suit on,
It's low tide and many rocks and seaweed are soggily exposed. Because of the diminished swell, the paddle out is a lot easier. One of the benefits of a sloppy swell is that there tend to be less surfers. This is the case. I watch as a surfer finally catches an overhead standout. he carves on by as the wave easily propels him along.
This sesh is not as easy as the one on Wednesday. I get tossed around a bit and am not standing up as fluidly. I just keep at it though, watching where there seems to be a good wave and paddling to that area. Most of the surfers out here are having trouble. Inconsistent closeouts seem to be dominating the scene. I keep charging and keep bodysurfing on my face - I just shaved today and this really helped! Finally after all that hard work, I manage to be in the right place at the right time and catch a big one. No where as long as Wednesday's magic wave but this was overhead by 2-3 feet. What a blast. I blow my few other chances to get some wall time. The sun turned all orange as the horizon got closer. The water looked like it was on fire capturing the sunset's reflection.
The water was a bit colder today. I could feel my body temperature lower. I caught a wave and took it in. Pulled off my leash and walked the long stretch over round rocks, sea weeds and sea debris, happy that I had booties on my feet.
I arrive on the estate and take care of a few loose ends: moving some beds, heating up some spaces, turning on the jacuzzi. Some how this ends up taking 2 hours and then I am off, yeah, gonna surf The Point again.
I arrive in the loaner, a silver Toyota Land Cruiser. A nice ride, lots of space and a decent stereo. It takes about 5 minutes for a parking spot to open. I've already seen the waves, due to the height of this SUV; the swell looks like it has faded quite a bit. There are still some overhead standouts, though.
As I am putting on my O'Neal wetsuit, I spot and say hello to Kim. She's a caterer who sometimes caters for the retreats - but not this time. She heads off to the restroom to get her suit on,
It's low tide and many rocks and seaweed are soggily exposed. Because of the diminished swell, the paddle out is a lot easier. One of the benefits of a sloppy swell is that there tend to be less surfers. This is the case. I watch as a surfer finally catches an overhead standout. he carves on by as the wave easily propels him along.
This sesh is not as easy as the one on Wednesday. I get tossed around a bit and am not standing up as fluidly. I just keep at it though, watching where there seems to be a good wave and paddling to that area. Most of the surfers out here are having trouble. Inconsistent closeouts seem to be dominating the scene. I keep charging and keep bodysurfing on my face - I just shaved today and this really helped! Finally after all that hard work, I manage to be in the right place at the right time and catch a big one. No where as long as Wednesday's magic wave but this was overhead by 2-3 feet. What a blast. I blow my few other chances to get some wall time. The sun turned all orange as the horizon got closer. The water looked like it was on fire capturing the sunset's reflection.
The water was a bit colder today. I could feel my body temperature lower. I caught a wave and took it in. Pulled off my leash and walked the long stretch over round rocks, sea weeds and sea debris, happy that I had booties on my feet.
posted by Dij at 7:21 PM
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