Magical wave

My reassimulation into the state of mind that is California was expedited by two events that combine to define the Golden State experience.

Yet another loner vehicle at the right time provided the transportation for my 8 foot fun board and I to access the Ventura coastline. I only had to wait a few heart beats for a spot to open in parking area numero uno. The beautiful lines of a classic swell greeted my eyes. Ten minutes later, I am paddling out. The water is not as cold as I expected. The booties doing their job of preserving some heat. I position myself about 25 yards to the right of a couple surfers. Several waves come by. All of them overhead. Then it comes. The wave that summarizes everything one could want or ask for from a California wave. It is at least 4 feet overhead. I paddle and it catches me, drags me, I pop to my feet immediately and am on it easily. Marveling at the size and shape of this baby as it propels me along its glassy surface. At least 6 surfers go for this wave as I carve up and down it. Then they see me and back off. When the ride ends, I've gone 300 yards. My longest ride ever. Almost as big as my biggest waves at the North Shore. When the wave ends and lets me go I am dazed with the beauty, the majesty and let out a loud 'WOOO!!" Another surfer answers. I have just returned to Caly.

The next experience was hopping in the Matilija hot springs with a couple friends. The stars blazed with their ancient fire over head and the aroma of sulfur feeled the air. As I soaked, I felt the feeling grattiude fill my body and mind. It is good to be back. Afterwards, I submerged myself in the chilly river and reveled in the exhilaration.