New boots
Sleeping in never felt as good as it did today. It is so bonus to get these 2 days to myself. I even made a list - the various basic tasks had been growing like the hair on a hippy. Took a bath for my tired and sore back, some tai chi and then out the door into the big silver Land Cruiser.
I payed a visit to the construction site and grabbed my tools. It was nice saying yo to the boys. "I thought you were going to surf." Some one said.
"Do not worry, I will be in the ocean shortly."
Before I know it, I've taken care of what I could on the list and am heading down 33 on my way to Ventura's C-street, the break that's always breaking. Sure enough, when I arrive, I can see the spray from a wave shoot in to view. When I look out on the water, I see a rough, blurry line up of waves. Very few surfers are out.
The paddle out is harder then it looks today. This is my first time out in just over 3 weeks and it kind of felt like it. I just kept paddling and paddling - happy that my soar right shoulder is not affected by surfing. What a relief. This means that I shall surf the next 3 days. Sunday is the day that Jennifer returns to here home and her cat. That meand the Land Cruiser will turn into a pumkin. Time for me to get some wheels. So, anyway, I make it to the outside and am surprised that the waves are bigger than they looked from the shore. They are chest highish to head highish and do not much want to be ridden. The first few I catch and stand up but then they let me go because they only breaked on the top. The third time I caught a wave, I paddled like a madman and stayed with it until it grew some face and then popped up on my feet and tumbled off into the water gasping and laughing to myself. Time passed and I caught several waves, it felt so sweet to be back in the ocean where I belong. The water did not seem so dirty as my memories of glorious North Shore's clear blue ocean water have faded slightly. I finally caught a small one in and loped out of the water, content and ready for the next task: aquire some motorcycle boots.
The drive to the BMW motorcycle store took longer than expected. They say they are in Ventura but they are really in Thousand Oaks. Anyway, after a few wrong turns and a lot of help from Sunny, I now have a cool pair of boots that will give me a great deal more protection than my low top, old and beat up basketball sneakers.
I payed a visit to the construction site and grabbed my tools. It was nice saying yo to the boys. "I thought you were going to surf." Some one said.
"Do not worry, I will be in the ocean shortly."
Before I know it, I've taken care of what I could on the list and am heading down 33 on my way to Ventura's C-street, the break that's always breaking. Sure enough, when I arrive, I can see the spray from a wave shoot in to view. When I look out on the water, I see a rough, blurry line up of waves. Very few surfers are out.
The paddle out is harder then it looks today. This is my first time out in just over 3 weeks and it kind of felt like it. I just kept paddling and paddling - happy that my soar right shoulder is not affected by surfing. What a relief. This means that I shall surf the next 3 days. Sunday is the day that Jennifer returns to here home and her cat. That meand the Land Cruiser will turn into a pumkin. Time for me to get some wheels. So, anyway, I make it to the outside and am surprised that the waves are bigger than they looked from the shore. They are chest highish to head highish and do not much want to be ridden. The first few I catch and stand up but then they let me go because they only breaked on the top. The third time I caught a wave, I paddled like a madman and stayed with it until it grew some face and then popped up on my feet and tumbled off into the water gasping and laughing to myself. Time passed and I caught several waves, it felt so sweet to be back in the ocean where I belong. The water did not seem so dirty as my memories of glorious North Shore's clear blue ocean water have faded slightly. I finally caught a small one in and loped out of the water, content and ready for the next task: aquire some motorcycle boots.
The drive to the BMW motorcycle store took longer than expected. They say they are in Ventura but they are really in Thousand Oaks. Anyway, after a few wrong turns and a lot of help from Sunny, I now have a cool pair of boots that will give me a great deal more protection than my low top, old and beat up basketball sneakers.
posted by Dij at 6:44 PM
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