Sunday, January 30, 2005

Whole bunch of surfing monkeys

I got the call from Rob today around 11. "Didj, do ya wanna go surfing?" So Rob and Mario pull up in Mar's old Volvo, we strap a couple of my boards on and we are off to the ocean to hunt down some waves. I'm stokey 'cause I'm finally gonna get to use my new 8 footer that I purchased almost a month ago. The rains arrived at the time of my aquisition and so I patiently waited for the various pollutants to filter into some kind of balance. We had some massive rain here in Southern California and there are still alot of roads still closed. We arrive at Surfer's Point in Ventura and observe fairly good waves and a whole bunch of surfing monkeys out there. As the first salty water touches my feet, I feel the cold, brrr ... I continue on into the water and soon am paddling out on the new longboard. My board is blue on top and red on the bottom. I catch 4 waves over the next hour. My lack of surfing recently translates to being out of paddle shape but I am still pleased with the speed of my new board. Surfing is a great way to remain in contact with nature. It has a stablizing effect on my being. I think surfers should be paid to surf. If this world made any sense, the govt., state, county would all pay us to surf. We could give them feedback on pollution levels, animal activity, and the condition of the shore. But instead, humans get recruited to kill other humans in a "theatre" that is real.