Wave day

The waves were more organized today. A lot less chop and easier to catch. Consequently, there were many more surfers. Each set had 3 to 5 waves and then there was a 5 to 10 minute lull. The first wave I caught was long and chest high. I took it straight and then made my cut as it walled up a bit.

If I was asked what characteristic stood out the most in the ocean today, my answer would be the water temperature – brrrr sums it up. The paddle out was easy although I could feel my rotator cuff at first. The icy water is probably good for it. Regardless, it did not bother me after 10 minutes or so.

My last wave was on the inside and actually was the best. Before I paddled out, I noticed that the inside waves had more shape even though their size was smaller. So, as I caught the last wave, I was pleasantly surprised when it walled up and sent me to within 10 feet of the sand.

Tonight, I ended up at a small gathering at Steve’s. We ate king crab, mahi, rice and salad. Brad, Sundance, Jenn and I soaked in the hot tub.