For me, surfing is the world. Nothing comes close. I've been at a premier surfing point for 2 weeks now. Until today, I had not caught a wave. The amount of work that goes into this sport is staggering. For those, blessed to live within range of great surf, this may be a different story. One cannot overestimate the value in surfing at a young age every day with epic conditions coming every winter or summer depending on your positioning. I woke up this morning chewing the gravel of frustration with my mind. I'd been anticipating this vacation for 5 or 6 months. Upon arrival, the waves were chomping at the bit, pum-ping is what I mean. Thus, when day after day witnessed my sorry ass tumbling down the falls and getting pounded by double overheads, well, maybe you can get some idea of my distress. Then today arrived. The surf had dropped to 4-7 with bigger sets still double overheading. As I paddled around the impact zone, I could not help forgetting the previous beatings. All I could do was soak in the exquisite beauty of this gorgeous polynesian island.
The funny thing about surfing is how easy it looks to everyone who does not do it. Those who have never tried almost always ask "What about the sharks? Aren't you afraid?"
My reply always runs along the lines of: Sharks? No, it's the other surfers you have to worry about. It's the reef, and the super powerful waves that are the danger and your surfboard and your leash.
Today on the beach, I was talking with Rick. A big wave broke his back at Pipeline in the 80's. It's happened 3 more times - all from surfing.
Meanwhile, this day gave me my first waves on an experts only point break. Nothing can stoke me higher. All 4.5 waves were awesome. 3 in my first sesh and 1 and a half in the second. Nothing can compare. I watched the sun fall behind a cloud and the top edge lit up like it was on fire just like me.