Pipe dreams
[Oahu Sepember 12, 2002]
Surfed 9/11 yesterday at Turtle Bay with Bri. It was small, short and oh so sweet. Only 5 of us surfers out there. Party waving, loving it. Warm water. Beautiful sunset, spotlights. Video camera, still shots. Small slow waves, top breaking. Brother Bri more stoked for me to catch a wave than himself. I caught one on his short board and stood up quickly. Bri was on his ole 10 footer next to me. Halfway, the wave shrugged me off - just too small for that board. But I stood on that wave with my brother and it was nice. Afterwards, Bri's like: "Get a 10 footer, we'll do this all winter. I'm like "Yeah, right on."
It feels time for me to establish my self in this artificial world. I can see the need for balance within this life of mine. It has always been just a matter fo deciding what I want. I recognize a prime window of opportunity for me to establish my own business. My own place. Steady work. My own longboard. A truck. A few machines I can make plenty of cash, surf, save it up and then have a resource base to fund my various artistic endeavors.
Currently, I am on a vacation from the didj. guilt free because of my rededication towards the internal martial art aspect of my training. Tai chi has become a full joy again and it has taken less than a month to begin to really feel the chi again. The novelty factor is so high and rewarding.
I have been down this path before
longing to open that broken door
to glimse inside your prison cell
where heaven is used to maintain hell
Surfed 9/11 yesterday at Turtle Bay with Bri. It was small, short and oh so sweet. Only 5 of us surfers out there. Party waving, loving it. Warm water. Beautiful sunset, spotlights. Video camera, still shots. Small slow waves, top breaking. Brother Bri more stoked for me to catch a wave than himself. I caught one on his short board and stood up quickly. Bri was on his ole 10 footer next to me. Halfway, the wave shrugged me off - just too small for that board. But I stood on that wave with my brother and it was nice. Afterwards, Bri's like: "Get a 10 footer, we'll do this all winter. I'm like "Yeah, right on."
It feels time for me to establish my self in this artificial world. I can see the need for balance within this life of mine. It has always been just a matter fo deciding what I want. I recognize a prime window of opportunity for me to establish my own business. My own place. Steady work. My own longboard. A truck. A few machines I can make plenty of cash, surf, save it up and then have a resource base to fund my various artistic endeavors.
Currently, I am on a vacation from the didj. guilt free because of my rededication towards the internal martial art aspect of my training. Tai chi has become a full joy again and it has taken less than a month to begin to really feel the chi again. The novelty factor is so high and rewarding.
I have been down this path before
longing to open that broken door
to glimse inside your prison cell
where heaven is used to maintain hell
posted by Dij at 7:47 PM
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